Is not just for the mountaineers. Seriously, everyone can do this. There are many options for all levels and many different experiences. It’s all about choosing the right one, and making the right plans.
From the gentle walks, to the hardcore full trek – it’s all available.
The wonderful thing about trekking in Nepal is that it’s relatively inexpensive, you don’t have to carry your own pack, and the Himalayas are absolutely stunning.
Everyone should go once. From this small flat island, the appeal of the mountains, the magnificence of the towering ranges, the cleanness of the air, the blueness of the big open sky, and the physical exertion make it a memorable holiday.
When you are on trail, you are totally removed from your normal existence. There is nothing around you that is remotely anything like your life. And the physical exertion means you will be focused on the hike itself. It is the best holiday from when you really need to get away from it all and give your head a break.
I highly recommend doing this at least once in your life.
Writing this has reminded me how wonderful it is and I am resolved to go back to the mountains in 2010!
Do I have to be fit?

Don’t complain about how hard it is! In the remote regions, the only way anything gets in and out is on someone’s back – from building materials to beer
To a certain degree. You need to be able to walk uneven trails for up to 6 hours a day. Some days are longer, some are shorter. And the pace depends on you (or the group you are attached to) Most trails cross valleys, so there will be up and there will be down. It’s not asphalt, and nice stairways. It may be uneven, rough, and sometimes- on wobbly bridges. If you don’t walk to the next point, you don’t get food or a bed…so that’s a good incentive!

I collected dogs along the way...
Generally you don’t just climb up (although there’s one day early on the Everest trail where for 3-4 hours you climb up up and up), you go down, up, down and up…
And never believe a Nepalese when they say it’s ‘flat’. Nepali flat is at least 30 degrees incline. And they bounce along the trails!
The best fitness preparation is stairs, stairs and more stairs. Spin classes, cross trainers, step classes. You’ll need a level of endurance, stamina and a level of high intensity. Best to start training at least 3 months out. Not being in decent condition means you don’t enjoy yourself as much.
The lay of the land

At Tengpoche, on the Everest trail
The gateway to Nepal is Kathmandu, and your trekking holiday will begin and end in Kathmandu (see previous story).
There are two main trekking areas to choose from. The Annapurnas in the central Himalayan border, and the Solu-Khumbu (Everest) in the East. There are many more trekking areas that are more remote and isolated than these 2 main areas. You can opt for rough, all the way to ‘luxury’. Roughing it would require camping, sleeping in tents; midway would be sleeping in public ‘teahouses’ on trail (in beds with your own sleeping bag, common toilets) and ‘luxury’ would involve lodges with beds, private bathrooms, and solar-heated showers.

Generally, with most organized treks, you will have a guide, a porter, and meals/accommodation (lodges or tents) will be arranged for you.

A porter will carry several bags and walk ahead of you on a trek... sometimes with just slippers- and they’ll still be much faster than you!
What you need to know about trekking in Nepal:
- It’s no fun if you’re not in good physical condition, so get fit!
- Get your boots and break them in before. If you’re worried, use blister plasters from your first day on the trail. It’s no fun with blisters.
- It’s the mountains, it’s FREEZING! You’ll need down, fleece, layers, thermals, a good sleeping bag. Don’t skimp.
- There’s not a lot to do after dinner. Bring books and playing cards.
- Don’t bring things that need recharging…you’re going into the highest parts of the world!
- Make sure you buy good health cover, which will cover air evacuation you if you get injured. You won’t be walking and the ambulance won’t be coming. A helicopter will be necessary.
- Anyone can do this. It just requires preparation. It will be one of the most memorable trips of your life.
- There are 2 main trekking seasons – February to May and September to November.
- Remember to tip your porters and your guide.
- You’ll need visas for Nepal.
- It isn’t terribly expensive. The most expensive part of the trip will be flights and Kathmandu. The trekking part isn’t too costly. Depending on the length of your trek of course.
The Annapurnas

Trekking the Annapurna foothills, with Machapuchare ("Fishtail") looming in the background
If you are after a gentle trek, start the way I did – with an Annapurna foothills trek with Ker and Downey
It’s a 4-day trek around the lower foothills of the Annapurnas, staying in the Ker and Downey lodges, with great guides, food, hot showers, and nice rooms.
If you’re not sure if you want to commit to a long trek, the foothills trek is great. You get a taste of what it’s like, but return to ‘civilisation’ relatively quickly. Plus, with a private room, flushing toilet and hot showers, it never feels too much of a strain. You never get beyond 2,000m, so it’s relatively warm, sometimes even hot.
The incredible service – of being met on tbe trail by a cook half way through your day, who has shown up to cook you lunch; the morning tea in bed, the afternoon tea when you arrive; the camaraderie around the fire after dinner, and the wonderful Nepalese people – in the villages, the guides, porters – mean that you will have a memorable experience and will want to go back. I still keep in touch with my wonderful guide, Buddha. For four days I looked at his back a lot as I struggled to keep up with him!
The Annapurna region is home to the Gurkha people, (I was often mistaken for a ‘Gurung’ woman), so is relatively wealthy. You’ll pass through various villages, padis, fields, rivers. The awful thing is when you’re struggling up another painful set of steps, small children run past you, shaming you!
You can also take your trek further. A really popular trek is the beautiful Annapurna circuit. The full circuit takes 3 weeks, you go from low to high (the Thorung La is a pass at 5,000m) and is incredibly beautiful. This is a teahouse route (you won’t need to camp) You are walking in the midst of some of the highest mountains in the world: Manaslu (8,000m)Langtang Himal, Annapurna II and IV, Annapurna III and Gangapurna, , Annapurna I and Dhaulagiri. As a circuit it means you do a loop, so you don’t walk through the same place twice – most treks you walk ‘in’ to a destination and ‘out’ again.

At Annapurna Base Camp
Another popular trek is into the Annapurna cirque to the Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) (12 days). Your ultimate objective is the basecamp of Annapurna South. The basecamp (where the mountain climbers start) is at 4000m+. There’s also the Jomson-Muktinath trek and a peek into the remote Mustang region.

Jomson to Muktinath
These longer treks require a lot more stamina, a bit more roughing it, much higher altitudes, and cold.
What you need to know about the Annapurna region
- The main town you start/end in is Pokhara. It’s a lovely little town, with a lake, things to do and buy.
- The main food of the region (actually of Nepal) is dhal-bhatt: dhal and rice. But it’s a watery dahl.
- I took my first (and only) ultralight flight from Pokhara. Hair-raising but so much fun! Like this
- The people in the foothills have agricultural-based lives and are incredibly friendly.
- Trekking in the foothills can be really hot, shorts rule (and hiking boots).
- You can cheat and get a helicopter to fly you into ABC. But you miss the great walk in. And it’ll cost you several thousands US.
- You can pony-trek part of the way to Muktinath.
The Solu-Khumbu (Everest) region

This particular day on the Everest trail was this climb, for hours...
Whether you are heading for Everest Basecamp, or the viewpoints of Gokyo Ri or Khala Pattar, the first 5-7 days on the trail will be the same. You should allow for 12-15 days on trail. By the way, Everest base camp does not give you the best views of Everest, Gokyo or Khala Pattar are your best option. But generally you will see Everest from about day 4 of your trek.
There are teahouses en route, and some private lodges, with flushing toilets. But as you get higher, to 4,000m, there’s no flushing or chemical toilets to be had – it all freezes. So waste just sits and freezes. Don’t look into the holes! One teahouse we were at advertised ‘hot showers’. What that involved was a boy climbing to the roof of the shared bathroom, and emptying a bucket of hot water into the bucket on the roof, that you then released. It was a surprise, to say the least!

On the Everest trail... peaks left to right – Everest 8800m, Lhotse 8516m, Ama Dablam 6856m
Trekking in this region is different from the Annapurna region.
For a start, the people of the area are different – the Sherpas dominate the region. And for another, the trail to Everest is all about altitude.
You start by flying into Lukla, which is literally a really short runway built into a mountain. Only certain planes can land on such an abrupt runway. This gives you an idea of how hair-raising it is.

That's the runway. And that really is the end of the runway! 450m, that's all
When you land, you’re already at 2,800m. You’ll notice that your heart is beating a little harder as the air is a little thinner. You’ll be met by volunteers from the Himalayan Rescue Association, giving you advice on altitude sickness.

Most 'toilets' on the trail are just holes in the ground. NASTY!! Bring Vicks
It is an incredible experience to be among the Himalayan giants, and the beauty of nature is at times overwhelming. You are walking on high trails, surrounded by mountains of 5,000m and above. Everest is 8800m, and it is surrounded by other peaks in the 6-7000m range. Spectacular scenery is really an understatement. The sky is so incredibly blue, and so incredibly BIG.

The trail is pretty busy. And busy includes yak and dzo (cross between yak and donkey) traffic. And that means a lot of dung on the trail, so watch your feet!
I prefer not being part of a group so I can take my time, take in the scenery, breathe the air, enjoy the hike, and not worry about keeping up. A guide you get on with will make a huge difference to how much you enjoy your trek.

A pretty dzo
The last big ‘town’ you get to is Namche Bazaar. This is the last place for laundry, bakeries and internet connections. You’ll spend a couple of days here acclimatizing to the altitude. From here it gets higher, and harder.

Namche Bazaar 3440m

Nearly at Tengpoche – looking back towards the trail from Namche, which is over the hill and far away...
A beautiful spot to aim for, if you go no further, is Tengpoche. This is a monastery high on a ridge, about 4 hours’ trek from Namche. What’s spectacular about it is its view. Have a look
open source video, online video platform, video solution
Video is the view from the ridge at Tengpoche. The peak with the big plume is Lhotse, Everest is behind it.
Tengpoche will always stay in my mind because in one of the gorgeous toilets there (the hole in the ground), I saw the biggest turd I have ever seen in my life. How nice.
When you get to 4000m, the terrain changes and becomes hostile…like going from the Shires to Mordor. It’s also silent, and cold, and hardgoing.
For mountaineers, this is the easy part. They haven’t even got to the point where they start their climbs.

4000m, it’s mordor!
What you need to know about the Everest trail
- Food in the mountains depends on altitude. Remember, most of the places you’re going to are NOT accessible by road, so whatever is there is carried in. So as you get higher, food is probably going to be potatoes, rice. Vegetables are scarce. Bring treats.
- Yak cheese is delicious!
- There’s a potpourri of people on the trail, including the fast, competitive striders. It’s your trek, so ignore them!
- Sunblock. High altitude sun burns. The hand my walking stick was in was totally burned and black.
- The smells in the toilets can be gag-inducing. Bring Vicks to rub into your nostrils before you go in.
- You can get a helicopter to Tengpoche. I would love to trek in to Gokyo Ri and have a chopper fly me out from Tengpoche to Kathmandu. $$$!

To give you an idea of scale – see the trees on the slope?
PS: If you still have energy after your trek, you can do some fine white water rafting in Nepal. Or go on safari – on elephants, in search of tigers. I’ve done neither, so if you do it, let me know!