Invictus

January 17th, 2010

The movie, and my incredible meeting with Nelson Mandela

Invictus

Last week I went to see the new movie Invictus. Using the South African rugby team’s superb triumph in the World Cup in 1990, it tells the story of Nelson Mandela’s early presidency and challenges to knit together a country fractured by apartheid. Clint Eastwood, as director, did a great job of telling this story. Trailer here.

It is the anti-Avatar film: no special effects, based on a true story, and real, not blue, people are in it!

It’s a straightforward film, no hamming, not cheesy, very compelling and easy to watch, with solid performances by Morgan Freeman (Mandela) and Matt Damon (Pinaart). It is good entertainment, a feel-good movie.

(see the full text of the poem “Invictus“)

A momentous day

I had the honour of meeting President Mandela about 12 years ago. I was escorting a big Hollywood actor on a publicity tour of South Africa, and part of the itinerary was his meeting with the President.

At the time, I had ‘headline info’ on the history of South Africa, and Nelson Mandela. I knew a little about apartheid (the national policy of segregation of blacks and whites) in South Africa, I knew Nelson Mandela had been jailed by the ruling Afrikaans minority (I remembered the song “Free Nelson Mandela”), I knew he was an iconic figure. But I was more concerned with the Hollywood actor and making sure everything was going to plan.

When we arrived at his residence, I lurked in the background, trying to be as invisible as possible, so attention could be lavished on Hollywood. President Mandela sought me out, and said, “Please, come and have tea with me”. I was mortified to be stealing the attention from Hollywood. ”Thank you sir, but I’m just here to help.” “I know you have been working hard, and I would like you to have tea with me.”

After tea, we went outside for Hollywood to have pictures taken with the President. He sought me out again, and said “Come and take a picture with me”. I cringed and said “no no sir, there’s no need” (please don’t talk to me!) And he said “You will want this picture later. Come.” and made me take a few pictures.

The next day, I was surprised by a gift from the President. A hardback photo book about his life, signed to me. He had sought out the least important person in the room, and made her feel special. (It was an interesting contrast to Hollywood, because with Hollywood, it was all about him, everyone else was there to make sure he was happy. Oh, he wasn’t a bad guy, but next to a Great Man, he was badly diminished.)

His long walk to freedom

That day I went and bought Long Walk to Freedom, his autobiography.

Long Walk to Freedom

And learned his story in full. As an anti-apartheid leader, he was jailed on Robben Island in a tiny cell for 27 years with hard labour. There were few books, little time outdoors, but a lot of time to think. It is a fascinating, moving and meaningful story.

Tiny cell in Robben Island“As I have already mentioned, I found solitary confinement the most forbidding aspect of prison life. There is no end and no beginning; there is only one’s own mind, which can begin to play tricks. Was that a dream or did it really happen? One begins to question everything. Did I make the right decision, was my sacrifice worth it? In solitary, there is no distraction from these haunting questions.

But the human body has an enormous capacity for adjusting to trying circumstances. I have found that one can bear the unbearable if one can keep one’s spirits strong even when one’s body is being tested. Strong convictions are the secret of surviving deprivation; your spirit can be full even when your stomach is empty.”

When he was released 27 years later at the end of Apartheid, he became South Africa’s first black President, at age 71.

What makes a great man?

I tell this story not to impress you on any kind of claim to fame. I honestly don’t have name-dropping tendencies. I tell you this to impress on you why Nelson Mandela deserves his reputation as a human being of enormous spirit, what we can learn from him, and why I want you to see this film.

It would have been really easy for him to have chosen a different route – either to become a symbol, or to punish those who locked him away for 27 years. Instead, he became even bigger than any of his history.

He chose to use his moment to show how the human spirit can rise above and be more, give more, care more, than events that could break you.

My story confirms the line in the film “No one is invisible to him”.

When I think of his incredible spirit, his generosity to little me, which is in itself graceful for any human being, let alone someone so iconic, and I think of his story, of the years of incarceration, deprivation and suffering, it so inspires me.

That whatever the circumstances, the human heart is capable of expanding to be more and give more than we can imagine. That if he can choose to take the high road, and be a force for good and positive change, then surely little me can too.

The story of Nelson Mandela is not one just about politics. It is the story of a great human being, and of being the best version of you.

That at every fork in the road, we can choose to take the high road and to use it to create a new version of ‘me’.

Since then, I’ve kept the pictures of me and Madiba on display to remind myself of that day of enormous inspiration, and of a special human being. Viva Madiba!

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Salad Recipes

January 17th, 2010

In sympathy with those on new year’s resolution diets. These recipes look yummy but for some reason lacking in a ton of salad greens!

Donna Hay’s yummy plum, chicken cashew salad
Donna Hay
’s yummy plum, chicken cashew salad

Madison Mag’s Prawn and Avocado stack
I really really want this!  Madison Mag’s Prawn and Avocado stack (but I’d add a lot of rocket leaves too)

Egg salad with a twist
Egg salad with a twist

Jamie Oliver’s Thai-style mango and griddled prawn salad
Jamie Oliver’s Thai-style mango and griddled prawn salad

Curried Rice and Quinoa

Curried Rice and Quinoa, for Ryan

Cooking Light’s Chipotle Taco Chicken salad
I will definitely be trying this one – Cooking Light’s Chipotle Taco Chicken salad

Chiva Som' Prawn and Pomelo Salad
From the wonderful Chiva Som kitchens, prawn and pomelo salad

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The Worst Fashion Trends of the Noughties

January 17th, 2010

by Fashion Jeannie

2000! The new millennium! When I was about 12, I thought that in 2000, I’d be flying around in spaceships, wearing shiny skin suits that made me look really hot (ok, so in my head, I was Uhura in Star Trek. Bite me). Well into my adulthood now, I can only say that the first 10 years of the shiny noughties have only lead to disappointment-fashion-wise. While, no one other than Uhuru or Giselle would look good in a shiny skin suit, there were fashion fads in the last decade that have been just as bad, if not worse. And damn, we still don’t live in the Jetsons’ world.

1. Crocs

CrocsApparently, factories churn out three million pairs of crocs a month and still can’t meet demand. And their adoption seems to be beyond the usual fashion fad. I remember turning on the TV one morning and seeing my favourite actor, Ian McKellan, being interviewed on a morning show. He was in a gorgeous grey suit, crisp white shirt and a siren red tie …with matching hideous red crocs! Even HE, man of demi-god status (in my books any), had succumbed!

What in the world possessed the universe to go-ga over plastic injection moulded shoes in lurid colours?! Do they not realise that they look like shoes made for trolls and goblins? They’re not even biodegradable so they’ll be ugly forever!

Should you one day, see my Jimmy Choo’s next to a pair of crocs in my (massive) shoe closet, please please stab me with a butter knife.

This video gives me great glee and reflects my deep-seated feelings about Crocs, and what I want to do 3 million times a month.

2. Severely Pointed Shoes

Pointed shoes!!Yes I have a shoe fetish. I could go on about Uggs too, but that’s stating the obvious (I know, Crocs are obvious too, but I needed that mini rant). In around 2002, the fashion world deemed that these weird shoes were what every fashionista needed in their wardrobe. Some approved them because they “elongate broad feet”. To me, they just looked like wearers had alien feet with 5 inch long toes. What gives? The only good thing about them was that if you should see a roach in the furthest corner of your room, you could slam your super pointy shoes down on them, effectively killing them in one fell swoop.

And I won’t even go into how many people broke their ankles tripping over their toes wearing those things.

3. Skirts over Pants

Skirts over Pants

This stupidity , I believe, started in the mid 2000s. It was the perfect look for the uncommited. Wake up in the morning, think ’skirt, pants, dress, which will it be today?’, then have a eureka moment when you go ‘why not wear them all ..together? After all, they say that only intelligent fashionistas know how to layer, right? Ummm… No. Even celebrities can’t get the look right. Look at Pink (a style icon of mine until I came across this picture), Wenday Malick and Jordin Sparks (above pics)

Trust me, the skirt/dress over pants look does NOT hide your thighs, hips, or butt. It just makes you look schizophrenic. Skirt or pants, pick one. Any one. Please.

4. Super-low rise Jeans

Super-low rise jeans

I tried to get into this fad, I really did. I bought a pair of super low Frankie B jeans. They continue to sit in my closet today. I can’t even give them away. When did butt cleavage become popular? Worse when guys bought into this trend and showed us how hairy their asses really were when they sat down. Even teenage heartthrob, Zac Efron got into it, with disastrous results (thank god he wore boxers).

OK, so theoretically, super-low slung jeans are comfortable because they sit on your hips, leaving your tummy free from the encumbrance of zips and buttons. Suddenly, nothing stands between you and extra donuts, coke, and mars bars.

The result – muffin tops and other lumpy spillage.

The result – muffin tops and other lumpy spillage.

Truth be told, super low rise jeans did look pretty hot – on the right body (eg Britney Spears circa Oops I did it again). You’ve got to have a flat stomach, and no love handles. Unfortunately, unless you’re at the gym every day, and consume no carbs (which would make you really really cranky), or are 19 and skinny as heck, super-low jeans was something that I was glad to see the back of (pun fully intended)

5. Teeny Weeny Shorts

Teeny Weeny ShortsDo you know how long Jessica Simpson had to work out and diet to get into her Daisy Dukes? Well, I don’t know, but if you see her pictures now, you’d know she sacrificed all things pleasurable in life to look the way she did in the Dukes of Hazard movie. Again, unless you’re 19 and have no cellulite or are at the gym every day, it is not a good look. I’m still not sure if you met the afore-mentioned criteria, I still want to see the back of your butt cheeks dangling below the shorts – and if the front is tiny enough for the pockets to hang down, the back is normally tiny enough to let the butt hang down, too. Which just isn’t nice, is it?

When I see women in short shorts traipsing down Orchard Road, I can’t stop the image of sweaty thigh stains left on seats in restaurants. Nuff said.

I really could go on and on about more god awful trends of the noughties, but I’m afraid that I’ve ranted so much, I’ve gotten a strong craving for muffins, coke and mars bars. So before I run off to the shops in my tiny distressed denim shorts and pointy heels (do you think I should wear a mini skirt over my shorts?). I would like to leave with a list of other fashion trends that I feel should not have seen the light of day.

Gladiator sandals up to the knees – unless you have Giselle’s legs, they will look ridiculous on you.Gladiator Sandals

Designer handbag rental businesses – Since the proliferation of ‘it’ bags, businesses where you can rent thee bags have sprouted up all over the world. While this isn’t strictly a fashion trend, I find this vaguely disturbing – that we would find it so essential to be seen with the right product that we’d rent our appearance of wealth.

Celebrities as fashion designers – Paris Hilton with her bling bags, Victoria Beckham with her dress collection (which honestly, isn’t bad), and the ultimate, Lindsay Lohan and her collaboration with Ungaro last year which received atrocious reviews and nearly caused the fashion house to go under. They just prove that people with no talent to start with should just stay within their sphere of expertise.

Picture of Lindsay Lohan’s Ungaro collection courtesy of www.nymag.com

Picture of Lindsay Lohan’s Ungaro collection courtesy of www.nymag.com

Paris Hilton's Bling Bag

Juicy velour track suits. Even Oprah had one. The most unflattering thing you could wear outside of your home.

Juicy velour track suits

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Curry Crab

January 17th, 2010

Curry CrabLast week I finally tried the ‘famous’ curry crab from 3 Crab Delicacy.  It arrives in a claypot, and has a rich curry gravy-soup.  It looks gorgeous, with the richness of colours of crab, curry and vegetables (eggplant and lady’s finger).

It is a knockout dish.  As with most crab dishes it’s slightly sweet from the crab, with a little spicy punch from the curry, and a really rich, slightly rough curry flavour (possibly from the curry leaves left floating in the soup) and slightly rich from the coconut milk that’s added to thicken it.

The difficulty of course, is how to eat it.  When it arrives at your table, it’s piping hot, so you can’t get your fingers into the crab till it’s cooled down a little.

Order a side of noodles to add to the broth, peel the crab and voila, perfect mouthfuls of springy noodles, soft, sweet crab, and hot curry broth.

We really liked this.  The combination of flavours is divine, nothing is overwhelming, everything complements beautifully.

At about $50 for one crab, it isn’t cheap.  But wow, it’s worth it.

The environment and ambience really isn’t up to much, and I discovered that it’s much more enjoyable to do takeout.  Call and order ahead of your pickup, as it takes 15 minutes to cook the dish.

3 Crab Delicacy
265 Outram Road
6327 2148

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French and Saunders break up

January 17th, 2010

The sad news last week that the fabulous British comedy duo of Jennifer Saunders and Dawn French have broken up.  Fabulously funny women, who will still continue the solo work they do (you remember Jennifer Saunders in AbFab, and Dawn French in The Vicar of Dibley).

My favourite French and Saunders moments of late have been their parodies of movies or music videos.  If you like tongue-in-cheek humour, with a dose of great physical comedy, you’ll like these!

Mama Mia for Comic Relief

This is how I felt about the movie so I found this HIL-A-RIOUS!  I think Jennifer Saunder’s impression of Meryl Streep is superb!

Comic Relief 2009 French And Saunders Mama Mia Part1
Comic Relief 2009 French And Saunders Mama Mia Part2

Madonna + Britney

Dawn French as Britney, who’d have thought?  Excellent!

The Exorcist

Tee hee hee

Cold Mountain

I don’t know who’s funnier – Jennifer Saunders as Nicole Kidman, or Dawn French as Renee Zellwegger

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Fitness, Diets and Fasts – repeat after me: My Body is A Temple!

January 5th, 2010

It’s post-festive season trauma: My pants are tight. I feel heavy. I over-indulged.  Treats became the norm, not the exception.   I lost control of my diet.  I’m terrified of Chinese New Year goodies!

Get Fit

Sound familiar? Every new year a large number of people resolve to ‘get healthy, get fit, lose weight’. Gyms are really busy in the first few weeks of the year. Then it tapers off and just the regular faces show up  :-D When I see the January newbies in the gym overdoing it in their first week, I know they’ll never be back. They push themselves so hard they either injure themselves or end up hating it. If you are new to exercise and just starting, take it easy. Don’t worry about what anyone else thinks. You’re doing this for YOU.

(I really am terrified of Chinese New Year goodies. They inflict much worse damage on me than Christmas!)

If you can afford it, get a trainer. A good trainer will listen to what you want to achieve, and work with you to get there. Unfortunately there are trainers out there that have a program they execute for everyone, generally around fixed weights machines. That might not work for you.

Read up before you embark on a program, and take it in stages. A great online resource is Women’s Health magazine. There are articles, downloads, advice – from starting out, to managing your program. I like the programs they create to work on specific areas, and the podcasts too.

Shape Magazine also has a great online presence.

If you’re serious about working out though, at some point, a trainer is a great investment. I have worked out all my life, and when I started working with Yusuf at Fitness First, he added another 20% to my results, corrected my form, pushed me harder, made me laugh.

If you’re not keen on joining a gym, start walking, running, swimming, cycling, rollerblading…there are lots of options. The key is to be consistent. 3 weeks of intense exercise and then nothing for the next 49 weeks of the year is going to get you nowhere except injured!

Yoga is great for your spirit and for building core strength. It is not a cardio exercise, unless you are doing power or ashtanga yoga. But if you are embarking on a fitness program, I highly recommend incorporating yoga into it. My personal idea of fitness is to be strong, flexible and cardio fit. Yoga is excellent for increasing strength and flexibility. It can be pretty challenging.  Plus, it is excellent at clearing out all the garbage in my head.

Control your diet

I exercise so I can eat. Which in itself is an unhealthy statement. (we’ll deal with the psychological diet issues another time!) We all have different expectations of how we want to look, and over the years I’ve accepted that I am never going to be a skinny-mini, and sometimes it’s just genetic, and I really love food.

So I’ve set my own benchmark based on how I feel. As I get older I’m much better at listening to my body, and trusting it. But every now again I go too far and feel totally out of whack, and need to get myself back on track.

We all know that the short-term fixes don’t last. They are just short-term fixes. A real lifestyle change is needed to make long-term alterations. But short-term fixes are great at kick-starting your new program, especially if you need positive reinforcement to stay on track.

Fasts are a great kick-start. Psychologically they give you confidence that you can exert control over your diet. Physically the results are instant. And real fasters feel clear, clean, and have amazing glows about them. Naysayers say your body is totally equipped to detox itself, so fasts are a fallacy and in the long-term make you gain even more weight in response to starvation.

I don’t know, I think not eating for days on end is really challenging.  Even though I find abstinence a lot easier than moderation, fasting is too extreme for me.

Fasts are SHORT-TERM and if you have health problems you really need a doctors guidance and should not do anything without his/her advice.

The most well-known cleanse program is the MasterCleanse. Before you embark on the MasterCleanse remember to listen to your body.

Even better, go on a supervised fast. The Dharma Centre in Koh Samui (in the pic below) has fasting holidays on a beach incorporating colonic irrigation, counseling, yoga and meditation.

The Dharma Centre


Diets

Like fitness, this is a long-term commitment. Making changes to your eating habits mindfully. There is now a new attitude to diets that are about balance and wellbeing, and not just losing the pounds. A big change from the Atkins days.

Ultimately it’s about the equation: calorie intake should be less than calories burned. A successful weight-loss program requires exercise and not just calorie deprivation, although that works too.  Building muscle keeps the weight off (muscle burns more calories) and cardio is good for your heart too.  (To better understand how your body works and what you can do to help it, read the excellent YOU An Owner’s Manual available at Page One)

I love the sensible advice that is now prevalent. Eat healthily. Avoid fried foods. Eat foods that are nutrient rich. Accept your body but make it the best it can be. Look after it well, feed it well.  Knowledge is power, and the focus is on understanding how food works with your body and what you need will guide you to making better lifestyle choices.

You On A Diet

I watched Dr Oz talk about his diet book on Oprah and loved it. He explains how the body works, the triggers to cravings and the physiology behind our food consumption. I love knowing how things work! The diet is built around real people, and realistic expectations. It’s about nutrition for your WHOLE body – why you need antioxidants, what’s good for your heart, and is a long-term plan…The book is available at Kino.
You can read his advice here and here.

The Silver Diet

Another great diet that focuses on the quality of the food you eat is The Silver Cloud diet. You can buy it as a downloadable ebook for US$29.95. It’s about eating whole and unprocessed foods, and obviously calorie control. Makes sense, no? There are recipes and a program to follow.

What I like about these diets is they focus on your health, with the side benefits of improving your aging process. Not just losing weight to look good.

The Abs Diet

The Abs Diet for women was written by the editor of Men’s Health in the US, who wrote the highly successful original Abs Diet. This focuses on eating good nutrition, power foods and exercise and resistance training to get you in great shape. Lose fat, build muscle, stay lean. I just don’t know if I could cope with the 6 meals a day. Available at Page One and Kino. An overview here.

The Alternate Day Diet

An interesting diet is the Alternate Day diet. On the basis that most women binge and starve anyway, this diet is built around the psychology of working with that over the long term. You eat what you like one day, and then fast the next. I’m not sure about this as I much prefer the concept of eating for nutrition and working with your body. This just doesn’t sound healthful.

And read a journalist’s experience of this here

Unfortunately cakes are not really part of any healthful diet. I am weeping.

Unless I can dedicate myself to feasting and fasting every other day. Hmm…

goodbye…the delicious sesame cake from Cedele.  It’s kinda healthy, it’s made of sesame!

goodbye…the delicious sesame cake from Cedele. It’s kinda healthy, it’s made of sesame!

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May Lee, Live and In Person

January 5th, 2010

May Lee - Live and In Person

If you want to know how a Korean-American girl from Columbus, Ohio made it to CNN, working with Oprah Winfrey’s network, to having her own show across Asia, wonder no more.  May Lee has written the story of her life thus far, what it takes to make it and how it all happened.   May and I agree – passion is vital.  Her book is frank, engaging and easy to read (and I’m not just saying that because she’s a friend).  What does it take to be a successful television journalist?  Determination, luck and for May, the 4 Ps.

I have a copy of the book that May will sign just for you.  Just write and tell May why you want the book.  Send an email to talk@thegroovini.com before 20th Jan.

“As a fellow Korean-American, I am thrilled to see May Lee succeed not just as a pioneer in broadcast television, but as an Asian woman who is constantly striving to stretch her limits and inspire others to do the same. This must-read book has it all… honesty, hope, heartbreak, humor and, most importantly, passion. I’m extremely fortunate to have had the chance to meet and work with May on a professional level, and very proud to call her a friend.”

- Daniel Henney, Actor

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Susi’s Nasi Ulam

January 5th, 2010

One of the blessings in my life is Susi, who looks after me and as an added bonus (and my friends), she is a wonderful cook.  She can cook everything except Scrambled Eggs, which completely eludes her.

With the overindulgence that’s bound to happen over Christmas, I thought I’d share this recipe for a simple, flavourful and satisfying dish.  It’s delicious, nourishing, nutritious and pretty clean – a perfect meal – and really easy to make.

Susi's Nasi Ulam

  • 1 tablespoon finely chopped Kaffir lime leaves
  • 1 tablespoon finely chopped Laksa leaves
  • ½ cup roughly chopped long bean

Make into a paste:

  • 4 shallots
  • 2 cloves garlic
  • 2 chillis
  • Flaked Batang fish
  • Rice, cooked for 4
  • 1 tablespoon oil
  • ½ tsp salt
  • 1 tbsp fish sauce

Heat a frying pan
Add the paste
Add the leaves
Add the fish
Cook for 5 minutes

Stir into the rice
Add the beans

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Trekking in Nepal

January 5th, 2010


Trekking in NepalIs not just for the mountaineers. Seriously, everyone can do this. There are many options for all levels and many different experiences. It’s all about choosing the right one, and making the right plans.

From the gentle walks, to the hardcore full trek – it’s all available.

The wonderful thing about trekking in Nepal is that it’s relatively inexpensive, you don’t have to carry your own pack, and the Himalayas are absolutely stunning.

Everyone should go once. From this small flat island, the appeal of the mountains, the magnificence of the towering ranges, the cleanness of the air, the blueness of the big open sky, and the physical exertion make it a memorable holiday.

When you are on trail, you are totally removed from your normal existence. There is nothing around you that is remotely anything like your life. And the physical exertion means you will be focused on the hike itself. It is the best holiday from when you really need to get away from it all and give your head a break.

I highly recommend doing this at least once in your life.

Writing this has reminded me how wonderful it is and I am resolved to go back to the mountains in 2010!

Do I have to be fit?

don’t complain about how hard it is! In the remote regions, the only way anything gets in and out is on someone’s back – from building materials to beer

Don’t complain about how hard it is! In the remote regions, the only way anything gets in and out is on someone’s back – from building materials to beer

To a certain degree. You need to be able to walk uneven trails for up to 6 hours a day. Some days are longer, some are shorter. And the pace depends on you (or the group you are attached to) Most trails cross valleys, so there will be up and there will be down. It’s not asphalt, and nice stairways. It may be uneven, rough, and sometimes- on wobbly bridges.  If you don’t walk to the next point, you don’t get food or a bed…so that’s a good incentive!

I collected dogs along the way...

I collected dogs along the way...

Generally you don’t just climb up (although there’s one day early on the Everest trail where for 3-4 hours you climb up up and up), you go down, up, down and up…

And never believe a Nepalese when they say it’s ‘flat’. Nepali flat is at least 30 degrees incline. And they bounce along the trails!

The best fitness preparation is stairs, stairs and more stairs. Spin classes, cross trainers, step classes. You’ll need a level of endurance, stamina and a level of high intensity. Best to start training at least 3 months out.  Not being in decent condition means you don’t enjoy yourself as much.


The lay of the land

At Tengpoche, on the Everest trail

At Tengpoche, on the Everest trail

The gateway to Nepal is Kathmandu, and your trekking holiday will begin and end in Kathmandu (see previous story).

There are two main trekking areas to choose from. The Annapurnas in the central Himalayan border, and the Solu-Khumbu (Everest) in the East. There are many more trekking areas that are more remote and isolated than these 2 main areas. You can opt for rough, all the way to ‘luxury’. Roughing it would require camping, sleeping in tents; midway would be sleeping in public ‘teahouses’ on trail (in beds with your own sleeping bag, common toilets) and ‘luxury’ would involve lodges with beds, private bathrooms, and solar-heated showers.


Trekking Regions in Nepal


Generally, with most organized treks, you will have a guide, a porter, and meals/accommodation (lodges or tents) will be arranged for you.

A porter will carry several bags and walk ahead of you on a trek... sometimes with just slippers- and they’ll still be much faster than you!

A porter will carry several bags and walk ahead of you on a trek... sometimes with just slippers- and they’ll still be much faster than you!


What you need to know about trekking in Nepal:

  • It’s no fun if you’re not in good physical condition, so get fit!
  • Get your boots and break them in before. If you’re worried, use blister plasters from your first day on the trail. It’s no fun with blisters.
  • It’s the mountains, it’s FREEZING! You’ll need down, fleece, layers, thermals, a good sleeping bag. Don’t skimp.
  • There’s not a lot to do after dinner. Bring books and playing cards.
  • Don’t bring things that need recharging…you’re going into the highest parts of the world!
  • Make sure you buy good health cover, which will cover air evacuation you if you get injured. You won’t be walking and the ambulance won’t be coming. A helicopter will be necessary.
  • Anyone can do this. It just requires preparation. It will be one of the most memorable trips of your life.
  • There are 2 main trekking seasons – February to May and September to November.
  • Remember to tip your porters and your guide.
  • You’ll need visas for Nepal.
  • It isn’t terribly expensive.  The most expensive part of the trip will be flights and Kathmandu.  The trekking part isn’t too costly.  Depending on the length of your trek of course.


The Annapurnas

Trekking the Annapurna foothills, with Machapuchare ("Fishtail") looming in the background

Trekking the Annapurna foothills, with Machapuchare ("Fishtail") looming in the background

If you are after a gentle trek, start the way I did – with an Annapurna foothills trek with Ker and Downey

It’s a 4-day trek around the lower foothills of the Annapurnas, staying in the Ker and Downey lodges, with great guides, food, hot showers, and nice rooms.

Ker and Downey LodgingsIf you’re not sure if you want to commit to a long trek, the foothills trek is great. You get a taste of what it’s like, but return to ‘civilisation’ relatively quickly. Plus, with a private room, flushing toilet and hot showers, it never feels too much of a strain. You never get beyond 2,000m, so it’s relatively warm, sometimes even hot.

The incredible service – of being met on tbe trail by a cook half way through your day, who has shown up to cook you lunch; the morning tea in bed, the afternoon tea when you arrive; the camaraderie around the fire after dinner, and the wonderful Nepalese people – in the villages, the guides, porters – mean that you will have a memorable experience and will want to go back. I still keep in touch with my wonderful guide, Buddha. For four days I looked at his back a lot as I struggled to keep up with him!

Ker and Downey LodgingsThe Annapurna region is home to the Gurkha people, (I was often mistaken for a ‘Gurung’ woman), so is relatively wealthy. You’ll pass through various villages, padis, fields, rivers. The awful thing is when you’re struggling up another painful set of steps, small children run past you, shaming you!

You can also take your trek further. A really popular trek is the beautiful Annapurna circuit. The full circuit takes 3 weeks, you go from low to high (the Thorung La is a pass at 5,000m) and is incredibly beautiful. This is a teahouse route (you won’t need to camp) You are walking in the midst of some of the highest mountains in the world: Manaslu (8,000m)Langtang Himal, Annapurna II and IV, Annapurna III and Gangapurna, , Annapurna I and Dhaulagiri.  As a circuit it means you do a loop, so you don’t walk through the same place twice – most treks you walk ‘in’ to a destination and ‘out’ again.

At Annapurna Base Camp

At Annapurna Base Camp


Another popular trek is into the Annapurna cirque to the Annapurna Base Camp (ABC)  (12 days). Your ultimate objective is the basecamp of Annapurna South. The basecamp (where the mountain climbers start) is at 4000m+. There’s also the Jomson-Muktinath trek and a peek into the remote Mustang region.


Jomson to Muktinath

Jomson to Muktinath

These longer treks require a lot more stamina, a bit more roughing it, much higher altitudes, and cold.


What you need to know about the Annapurna region

  • The main town you start/end in is Pokhara.  It’s a lovely little town, with a lake, things to do and buy.
  • The main food of the region (actually of Nepal) is dhal-bhatt:  dhal and rice.  But it’s a watery dahl.
  • I took my first (and only) ultralight flight from Pokhara.  Hair-raising but so much fun!  Like this
  • The people in the foothills have agricultural-based lives and are incredibly friendly.
  • Trekking in the foothills can be really hot, shorts rule (and hiking boots).
  • You can cheat and get a helicopter to fly you into ABC.  But you miss the great walk in.  And it’ll cost you several thousands US.
  • You can pony-trek part of the way to Muktinath.


The Solu-Khumbu (Everest) region


This particular day was this climb, for hours...

This particular day on the Everest trail was this climb, for hours...

Whether you are heading for Everest Basecamp, or the viewpoints of Gokyo Ri or Khala Pattar, the first 5-7 days on the trail will be the same. You should allow for 12-15 days on trail. By the way, Everest base camp does not give you the best views of Everest, Gokyo or Khala Pattar are your best option. But generally you will see Everest from about day 4 of your trek.

There are teahouses en route, and some private lodges, with flushing toilets. But as you get higher, to 4,000m, there’s no flushing or chemical toilets to be had – it all freezes. So waste just sits and freezes. Don’t look into the holes! One teahouse we were at advertised ‘hot showers’. What that involved was a boy climbing to the roof of the shared bathroom, and emptying a bucket of hot water into the bucket on the roof, that you then released. It was a surprise, to say the least!


On the Everest trail…peaks left to right – Everest 8800m, Lhotse 8516m, Ama Dablam 6856m

On the Everest trail... peaks left to right – Everest 8800m, Lhotse 8516m, Ama Dablam 6856m


Trekking in this region is different from the Annapurna region.

For a start, the people of the area are different – the Sherpas dominate the region. And for another, the trail to Everest is all about altitude.

You start by flying into Lukla, which is literally a really short runway built into a mountain. Only certain planes can land on such an abrupt runway.  This gives you an idea of how hair-raising it is.

That's the runway. And that really is the end of the runway! 450m, that's all

That's the runway. And that really is the end of the runway! 450m, that's all

When you land, you’re already at 2,800m. You’ll notice that your heart is beating a little harder as the air is a little thinner. You’ll be met by volunteers from the Himalayan Rescue Association, giving you advice on altitude sickness.



Most 'toilets' on the trail are just holes in the ground. NASTY!! Bring Vicks

Most 'toilets' on the trail are just holes in the ground. NASTY!! Bring Vicks



It is an incredible experience to be among the Himalayan giants, and the beauty of nature is at times overwhelming. You are walking on high trails, surrounded by mountains of 5,000m and above. Everest is 8800m, and it is surrounded by other peaks in the 6-7000m range. Spectacular scenery is really an understatement. The sky is so incredibly blue, and so incredibly BIG.

Mt. Everest


The trail is pretty busy.  And busy includes yak and dzo (cross between yak and donkey) traffic.  And that means a lot of dung on the trail, so watch your feet!

I prefer not being part of a group so I can take my time, take in the scenery, breathe the air, enjoy the hike, and not worry about keeping up. A guide you get on with will make a huge difference to how much you enjoy your trek.

A pretty dzo

A pretty dzo



The last big ‘town’ you get to is Namche Bazaar. This is the last place for laundry, bakeries and internet connections. You’ll spend a couple of days here acclimatizing to the altitude. From here it gets higher, and harder.

Namche Bazaar 3440m

Namche Bazaar 3440m


Nearly at Tengpoche – looking back towards the trail from Namche, which is over the hill and far away...

Nearly at Tengpoche – looking back towards the trail from Namche, which is over the hill and far away...

A beautiful spot to aim for, if you go no further, is Tengpoche. This is a monastery high on a ridge, about 4 hours’ trek from Namche. What’s spectacular about it is its view. Have a look

open source video, online video platform, video solution





Video is the view from the ridge at Tengpoche.  The peak with the big plume is Lhotse, Everest is behind it.


Tengpoche will always stay in my mind because in one of the gorgeous toilets there (the hole in the ground), I saw the biggest turd I have ever seen in my life.  How nice.

When you get to 4000m, the terrain changes and becomes hostile…like going from the Shires to Mordor. It’s also silent, and cold, and hardgoing.

For mountaineers, this is the easy part. They haven’t even got to the point where they start their climbs.





4000m, it’s mordor!

4000m, it’s mordor!


What you need to know about the Everest trail

  • Food in the mountains depends on altitude. Remember, most of the places you’re going to are NOT accessible by road, so whatever is there is carried in. So as you get higher, food is probably going to be potatoes, rice. Vegetables are scarce. Bring treats.
  • Yak cheese is delicious!
  • There’s a potpourri of people on the trail, including the fast, competitive striders.  It’s your trek, so ignore them!
  • Sunblock. High altitude sun burns. The hand my walking stick was in was totally burned and black.
  • The smells in the toilets can be gag-inducing. Bring Vicks to rub into your nostrils before you go in.
  • You can get a helicopter to Tengpoche.  I would love to trek in to Gokyo Ri and have a chopper fly me out from Tengpoche to Kathmandu.  $$$!
To give you an idea of scale – see the trees on the slope?

To give you an idea of scale – see the trees on the slope?


PS:  If you still have energy after your trek, you can do some fine white water rafting in Nepal.  Or go on safari – on elephants, in search of tigers.  I’ve done neither, so if you do it, let me know!

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