When your brain is spinning the same negative thoughts round and round, when you are at your wits’ end, when your heart is heavy and you can’t lift your head off of the plateau, the thing to do is to head to Ubud.

There is something really special about Ubud. Although I am a Bali beach girl myself, I’ve been returning intermittently through the years. Maybe it’s one of those place where the meridians align, the magnetic fields merge harmoniously… I think it’s more than the response to the natural aesthetic beauty – the green-ness of the rice terraces, the peaceful stillness, the landscape of the hills and the river below. Maybe it’s in the kindness of the people, the laid-back atmosphere or the gentle climes of being on the slopes. Maybe one or all those things make Ubud a really healing place.

You won’t see any skyscrapers, or big concrete resorts. Everything is tucked away to make the most of the natural beauty of the undulating landscape.

Como Shambhala Estate

And if you can afford it, head to the Como Shambhala Estate, paean to Ubud’s healing qualities; the holistic spa/retreat/haven is 15 minutes out of Ubud proper. It’s pricey, but totally worth it. It is quiet, soothing, enchanting and incredibly beautiful. My favourite spot is a ledge perched on top of the Ayung River. Way down below you can hear the river running by, and occasionally, the shrieks of white water rafters. You’re surrounded by green – padi fields, jungles, treetops. Natural alchemy at work, creating a sense of peace. To make the most of the peace, and to really find your centre, go alone.

At the bottom of a lot of steps, by the river, is The Source, a natural spring, and the rock pool. The Source is known in local lore as a healing spring.

The architecture is sympathetic to the beauty of the environment. From the older residences (where you can rent individual suites, or the whole house), which are more traditional, to the new clean-chic villas added when COMO took over, the whole place just makes you exhale.

Bathtime in your retreat villa, Como Shambhala Estate

Wanakasa Master Suite

Massages, Ayurvedic treatments, free daily yoga are all available at the spa, right next to the lap pool.

 

The restaurants serve inventive, healthful organic food (vegetables are homegrown). If you are going there to switch off and shut down, take the package that includes all your meals, it makes more sense. Garden rooms start at US$300 per night, a 3 night all meal package starts at US$1,290.

The Estate also hosts yoga retreats by visiting eminent gurus, check the website for retreat info here.

You will find your inner smile and clarity here.

Without a doubt, one of my favourite places in the world.

Uma Ubud

COMO also runs Uma Ubud, which is slightly more affordable, and shares the same yoga/holistic/organic ethos. Yogi friends who went loved it too, and came back blissed out. Maybe not as green and majestic as the Estate, but still really pretty, relaxing, and loving. It’s closer to the centre of Ubud so more useful if you want to get out and about. There’s a special promo now for the terrace room at US$195. For more info, email res.ubud@uma.como.bz.

Garden Room, Uma

Poolside with Bar and Yoga Pavilion, Uma

 

Murni’s

You can also experience Ubud in a more intimate way. Friend Whitney loves Murni’s, an Ubud staple. I’ve not stayed there, but have eaten well at Murni’s Warung, which is lovely. Ibu Murni is an institution in Ubud and started the warung in 1974.

Other than the Warung, Ibu Murni offers accommodation at either the Houses or Villas. You can take a room or a suite in one of the Houses (starting at US$60 per night).

Quintessentially Bali interiors, lovely gardens and grounds… a haven of peace just off Ubud’s main drag, the river right there. Small but perfectly formed.

Murni also has exclusive Villas about 15 minutes up the road, which share the same aesthetic qualities, and a wonderful spot to exhale. There is a stunning 15m-infinity pool in front of ascending rice terraces. From here, all you see are hills and distant forests. Murni lives here herself.

A very special offer – Rates for the villas start at US$250 for an entire villa, but if you contact Jonathan and tell him you found the villas through The Groovini, he’ll give you 50% OFF!

If you are not staying here, make sure you at least eat at the gorgeous Warung, and poke around the shop of interesting collectibles.

There is no shortage of accommodation at different price points in Ubud, or resorts to suit the kind of experience you want to have, from 6 star resorts to humble losmen (guesthouses). No matter where you stay, the natural beauty and magic of Ubud abounds.

Another Ubud institution is the Lotus Café. This is the original Lotus that has spawned many more (and none compare with the original). Again, the setting is just breathtaking. In the midst of a huge lotus pond, on temple grounds, lit by lamp- and candlelight. The food isn’t bad but you’re really there for the amazing ambience. Can get quite mosquito-y at night, so spritz the Off on before you go. Jalan Raya Ubud (the main street)

Stuff to do

Just past The Lotus Café is the Puri Saren. Originally a palace, there is traditional Barong dancing there every night, and if you’ve never seen traditional Balinese dancing, you must go at least once, and in a great setting.

Ubud is a craft/arts town, so there are plenty of galleries around, and some great artists, local and foreign, live in Ubud. Unfortunately tourism has brought on a few of Bali’s versions of strip malls, but you can still find interesting stuff. I bought a beautiful 50cm high, carved silver Ganesha for US$130. The market is right in the centre of town (close to the Puri Saren).
Outside Ubud is the town of Celuk, where a lot of the amazing silverwork that Bali is known for comes from. Intricate shapes, mouldings, and not just in jewellery – probably where my Ganesha came from.
The town of Batubulan is renowned for stone carvings, in black lava stone and sand-coloured paliman. Of course you’re not going to be schlepping a giant garden Buddha or a massive urn in your luggage, but most places arrange shipping. Remember to opt for Insurance and door-to-door shipping.

If you’re feeling lively, there’s a lot to do in Ubud too. Climb a volcano, mountain bike all around the hills, or white water raft down the Ayung River. There are several yoga salas too, that are not affiliated to resorts. The annual Bali Spirit Festival, celebrating yoga and music, is held in Ubud.

Friend Anne (pictured below) climbed Gunung Batur. She says it’s a 2-3 hour climb depending on your fitness, manageable if you’re in decent condition, and totally worth it for the sunrise…though it’s cold at the top at that time. Eating eggs cooked by the volcano (below) is a treat!

Anne, at the top of Gunung Batur

Sunrise from the peak

Me? I hardly left my villa at the Estate, unless absolutely necessary!

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