My Last Duchess

January 27th, 2012

I’ve long been a fan of history and historical fiction, especially if presented in a light-handed, deft way.

But my picking up My Last Duchess was definitely a post-Downton Abbey reaction.

This book was published last year, and not to be mistaken with Amanda Foreman’s The Duchess (made into a fabulous film starring Keira Knightly).  At its core it is a love story, but set in amongst the particular issues of the age.

Cora is a young American heiress, when the rich in America were fabulously, out-there rich.  This is the Gilded Age, the time of the Astors, the Vanderbilts, the ‘robber barons’.  The rich were excessively rich, and lived madly extravagantly.

Cora’s socially ambitious mother takes her to England in search of a titled husband, and Cora unexpectedly falls in love with a real, young, handsome Duke, with an impoverished estate.

But the Duke has secrets and issues of his own, coupled with Cora being at a loss and ostracized for being a rich American – new money thrown at the aristocracy – and a cold reception from her British peers plus an awful feeling of getting everything wrong.  The tall, rich beauty losing her footing amidst the cobwebs of traditions and great estates.

It is not a bodice-ripper, or a ‘romance’ novel.  It is a close look at how Cora copes with all that is thrown at her, her new-found vulnerability, the ridiculousness she encounters, and her true coming of age.

It is a pretty astute observation on rules, emotions, naivete, intentions and, of course, what money can buy.  And of course, a wonderful departure from the dreariness of our own reality.

I’m not sure all the questions that are posed on all those issues get answered.  The ending, to me, is another big question in itself, at the choices Cora makes.  But perhaps love is more powerful than anything else.

It was one of those rare books whose story arc, well-painted characters and excellent mise-en-scene sucked me in and I had to stop myself from reading it in one sitting.

It’s not a great book, but a pretty good read, and excellent escapism.

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Dragon Pottery/Pottery Jungle

January 24th, 2012

First up, that’s not their proper name.

The proper name is Thow Kwang Industry, famous for having the only ‘dragon’ kiln in Singapore.  Hence, Dragon Pottery/Pottery Jungle.

I’m sure you would’ve heard that they are probably going to be shut down soon to make way for Progress.

Established in 1965, I believe the lease expires end March, so if you are so inclined, hie thee to Kranji.

You can make this a part of a Kranji day out, mapped out by the National Heritage Board.  Check this out.  It’s a nice way to spend the day, not malls, not developments, and slightly wild.

The dragon kiln is a long oven that gets fired a couple of times a year, and potters love it for the unique glaze it brings.

Anyway, if you aren’t a potter, the unfired kiln isn’t much to look at.

one end of the long dragon kiln

There is a studio area, and classes on offer – but not for much longer.

What you go for is the VAST, mad, eclectic collection of ceramics for sale.

Tchotchkes like you wouldn’t believe, some scary, some tacky, some cute, and all sorts of plates, dishes, pots, umbrella stands.

©Jay Budai

©Jay Budai

©Jay Budai

I wouldn’t say it’s crazy cheap, but definitely unique in having so much in one spot.  I remember when Holland Village had the stores that sold all these great ‘tongs’ – now gone of course.

pots, vases, pots, vases, pots, vases...

love these ceramic stools

deity anyone?

there's an upscale corner, with collectibles

fine work too

there's also stone and terracotta

and some celadon

It’s a nice spot, still has a bit of a kampong feel and a sense of countryside about it.

The whole Kranji area (except for the CleanTech Park development that’s the reason for the end of the dragon kiln) gives you a real feeling of getting away from the city.

©Jay Budai

Sadly these pockets are getting smaller and smaller, so do get out there.

Thow Kwang Industry

85 Lorong Tawas  Singapore 639823

6268 6121

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Qannik

January 14th, 2012

That’s his name…

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Khana Commune

October 31st, 2011

I don’t know what came over me.

I am not good at meeting new people, and a disaster if thrown into a cocktail party situation.  I tend to talk to people I already know.

So what got into me to sign up for Khana Commune?

Khana Commune is one of Singapore’s new things, a secret supper club.

A what?

Secret Suppers are like flash mobs for eating.  In the instance of Khana Commune, host (the very lovely) Zina Alam opens her home to you and up to 15 others.  You pay to hang out at Zina’s home and eat what she prepares for you, with people you don’t know.

Usually something I would avoid like the plague, but I was piqued with curiosity and by pictures of Zina’s food showing up on my FB page.  You know I have a fondness for food (understatement).

My friend Mai described it ‘checking our social skills, to see if we still have any’.

When we arrived, there was already a table of 6 going, made up of a group who had come together.  We decided to take the second table instead of joining a pre-bonded group – it seemed less intimidating.

Our table of 8 ended up being made up of a group of 30/40-somethings Canadians and a Brit anaesthetist, his Singaporean friend, and us.  Who would have thought that would be a combination for an enjoyable, sociable evening?  There was one person who we could have met through our normal circles.  The other 5 were definitely out of our six-degrees-of-separation-ness.  It was a really enjoyable combo.

If you sign up for these things, you have to go with an open mind and an open heart.  Part of the secret supper experience is the social one, of meeting people you wouldn’t ordinarily meet, hearing different stories over yummy food.  If nothing else, you’re united by curiosity and food-fandom.  So there’s bound to be something to talk about.

And it was yummy.  Zina offers Bengali-based food, a mix of mum’s recipes and cooking (mum was in the kitchen), Zina’s own experiments and helper Wati’s contributions.  This was our menu for the evening -

to start

stuffed mushrooms

begun bhartha on dahl with roasted winter figs (aubergine mash on lentils)

to follow

murg pilao (dhaka chicken biryani)

potato cutlets

peanut and pineapple salad

to sweeten

gula melaka kulfi

It sounded very promising!

It was ALL good.  I was happily surprised by the dahl – I’ve usually had yellow dahl that’s quite watery (especially in Nepal, it’s like a soup), but this dahl was thick, substantive and really flavourful.  Coupled with the aubergine puree, it could have been a gooey mess, but it wasn’t – it was tasty, and the bite of the roasted fig provided the texture to hold it all together.

The chicken pilao was subtle but hearty, and accompanied by mum’s sweet chutney, and Wati’s crunchy, fresh salad.  All together on one plate, contrasting textures and flavours that worked really well together.  They were accompanied by potato-meat rissoles, delicious in their own right, and another nice note in the overall piece.  The pilao is quite unlike the heavier Indian biryani – it was gentler, less greasy, packed a quieter punch but delivered taste.

Being a great fan of gula melaka, I was excited by the kulfi, and it didn’t disappoint.  Maybe if you don’t have a sweet tooth, it wouldn’t be your cup of tea – as kulfi (like ice cream, but with condensed/evap milk) is sweet and rich.  The gula melaka added another dimension of the sweet.  A happy marriage.

As far as I could tell, I wasn’t alone in enjoying the good food and convivial company.  You wouldn’t ordinarily catch me rolling out a phrase like ‘convivial company’ but it genuinely was.

Zina herself is a delight, a natural hostess blessed with oodles of charisma (and cooking skills).  Zina’s sister, in London, has now started a London Khana Commune – so readers in London, give it a go!

An unexpectedly enjoyable and happy evening.  Happy tummy, happy brain.  For $55 a head, that’s good value for money.

To give it a go yourself, contact Zina to get alerts on her next planned evening, or like the FB page.

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Open Door Policy

October 24th, 2011

Tiong Bahru is the new Club Street it would appear.

From a quaint deco-ish estate with long-time residents mixed with dormitories for foreign workers (legal or not I don’t know, but I went into a tiny property once that housed about 35 men, no windows, no air), to an influx of new residents paying $1m (it was $800k about 6 months ago) for a 2bedroom flat.

Part of the hipness is from the newer business opening there – uber-hip Books Actually and even uberer-hip Strangelets.  And the buzz around Forty Hands for stellar coffee.  All on one quiet street.

Now joining them on Yong Saik Street is new eatery Open Door Policy.  A resto-child born out of a ménage a trois of Cynthia Chua (Spa Esprit), Ryan Clift (Tippling Club) and Harry Grove (Forty Hands).

As it is the hot new thing, make sure you book well in advance, or wait a couple of months.

We only tried a few dishes, so please share on FB if you try the other dishes on the menu.

As usual I got so caught up in eating, I forgot to take pictures, so you’ll have to make do with the stock photos.

It must be that I’m not hip enough or too old, because the decor just didn’t do it for me.  Uncomfortable metal chairs (old school chairs?) that snag your clothes and your skin (if you’re wearing a skirt), cold metal ceiling, strange wood panelling.  The large skylight in the back of the space is lovely, and if you’re seated in that part of the resto, it’s got a very New York-y feel to it.  It could just be that I’m of the age that I would choose warm and inviting comfyness over edgy, painfully-hip decor.  You young hipsters might love it.

Happily though, the food is outstanding.  It’s tasty, tasty, very very tasty, it’s very tasty.  (you think I’m babbling, but I’m just quoting a commercial from the 80s!)

I felt like Gregg Wallace on Masterchef with every first spoonful.  Because really, the food here is all about the taste, and the genius in being able to extract as much taste out of a single spoonful possible. You really do get multiple hits of taste from one spoonful because of the chef’s skill in building complexity to a dish.  It’s not about comfort food and losing yourself in volume and a food coma.  It’s about making each mouthful count.

That thing you hear on those shows all the time – you have to really know your food to be able to combine flavours to make a masterpiece – yes, that’s here.   Much like how Willin Low manages it with his local-modern fusion at Wild Rocket.

We had 2 starters – the baba ganoush and the halloumi (menu here).  The baba ganoush made really interesting with the addition of curry oil.  Creamy, flavourful, with an uplift from the curry oil.  But the halloumi!  I would go back just for the halloumi.

As with all the dishes, beautifully presented.  Grilled strips of halloumi in a dish with olive oil, roasted cherry tomatoes, anchovies and olives.  Salty, bitey cheese, softened by the olive oil, sweetened by the tomato bursting in your mouth.  Don’t ignore the cubes of drenched focaccia in the bowl.  Yet another lovely flavour, yet another texture.

I had the much-buzzed-about beef cheek – 48 hour cooked sous vide.  And truly, it really is the tenderest cheek of beef you could hope to meet!  It really gently melts.  You have to love meatymeatmeat – because the central flavour of it is it’s rare-ish meatiness – much like tartare.  I don’t think I could eat it again as I like my meats adorned or really done.  But I’m glad I took the opportunity to celebrate flavour and texture like that.

Next time it’s the rigatoni bolognese for me.

We had the lime pannacotta with coconut sago and the white chocolate mousse with raspberry headache (still don’t know exactly what a raspberry headache is)  The pannacotta was yummy and comforting but the white chocolate mousse was stunning.  Little pellets of semi-frozen white choc mousse dusted in raspberry powder (the headache??) with raspberries on the side and raspberry coulis (all of those make for a headache??).  The sensation of the hard pellet melting in your mouth to release the milky sweetness countering the bite of the raspberry.  Damn.

Another surprising wow was the affogato – espresso over a dollop of ice cream.  The coffee is from Forty Hands and they take coffee really seriously here (no decaff) and wow, it really is something else.  That round-but-bitter, rich, intense coffee meeting the melting, creamy vanilla ice cream – just amazing.  I think that might have been the best coffee I’ve ever tasted.  It was definitely the best affogato ever.

Service was good, with young, knowledgeable, well-spoken staff.  We had a bit of a to-do with the maitre d’, but he did work very hard to redeem himself.  It did mar the evening and we did have to leave early because of it – but the effort he made to make up for the upset was appreciated.

It wasn’t the most comfortable experience ever, but it was one of my tastiest.  I don’t think it’ll become one of my default restos as it wasn’t terribly welcoming, but good food nonetheless.

All hail the chef and the coffee maestro.

19 Yong Saik Street

bookings: enquiries@odpsingapore.com

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Downton Abbey

August 2nd, 2011

Viewers everywhere else in the world have fallen in love with the fabulous Brit series Downton Abbey.  Even Will and Kate are fans.

Alas, it isn’t on any TV schedules in our neck of the woods, so is only available on DVD through Amazon.

It is FAB-U-LOUS.

Set in post-Edwardian England, it tells the story of the the Earl of Grantham and his family: wife Countess Cora, daughters Lady Mary, Edith and Sybil, and the many staff to run the gorgeous home the series is named for (actually Highclere Castle).

Because inheritance is only through the male line, the Earl’s daughters will not keep the estate or money after his death.

Enter The Heir…

The Crawley sisters: Lady Sybil, Mary and Edith

Before you pooh-pooh it as an inaccessible, somber period piece, wait!

It moves quickly and it’s easy to get totally engrossed in it.  We watched 4 episodes back-to-back and would have continued, except it was late.

It’s gorgeous to look at.  The storylines are absorbing and accesible.  The writing deft and light.  The characters are easy to like or dislike.  The sets -- the interiors, the clothes -- are all stunning.

The Earl and Countess Grantham in the delicious drawing room

There’s swoony love, there’s high and low drama, there’s humour and wit, there’s compassion, and there’s fine acting.  (Maggie Smith -- doughty and hilarious!)

It’s the stuff my fantasies are made of -- a truly fabulous ‘house’, divine interiors, gorgeous clothes, attractive heroes, nasty villains.

The Heir: Matthew Crawley

It’s not fuddy duddy ye-olde-worlde at all.

While it portrays the lives of the aristocracy and the serving staff of the time, it really is about the human relationships and the stories.  Although the serving staff are below stairs, they have a rigid social structure and rules too, and of course, have dreams, feelings and disappointments.  The writing is so good that you move between the worlds without even noticing, and get attached to characters, whether or not you like them.

the staff

As my nephew described it ‘olden days Gossip Girl‘, which is a perfect description!

Amazingly, it’s all the work of Julian Fellowes (who wrote Gosford Park) and is not an adaptation of anything.  Hence the very modern pace and storytelling.

Sadly, as it’s a British series, it’s only 7 episodes (at the cost of a million pounds per episode and when you watch it, you’ll see why) and series 2 will air in the UK soon.  That’s another 8 episodes.

I can hardly wait.

I LOVED this!

Trailer here

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Wolfgang Puck’s Cut at MBS

August 1st, 2011

A friend passing through town asked me to pick a restaurant for dinner for our annual catch-up/philosophical debate/chin wag.  He’s pretty careful about his carb intake, so I thought this was the perfect time to try one of the several new steakhouses in town.

I am not much of a meat eater (in fact I’ve gone meat free many times in my life) but do appreciate a good steak every now and then.

I called Bedrock and was told that Saturday dinner was in 2 sittings.  From 6.30-8.30 or 8.30 onwards.  So – eat early and skedaddle somewhere else or eat late and linger.  Neither was attractive.

I called Cut at MBS and fully expected ‘we are full’ but lo and behold, they had room.  Mindful of friend’s wallet (he always buys dinner), I asked what the average $ per head was.  ”Starting at $300 per person for 3 courses”.  Wow.  That had to be pretty fine steak.

The menu is relatively simple – starters, then a choice of different cuts of different grades of meat (from USDA Prime to 100% Japanese Wagyu), with your choice of sauces and sides (from mac and cheese to caramelised onions to broccoli).  There are other dishes (chicken, pork) on the menu should you not eat beef.  (menu here)

Mr Puck and the various cuts on offer

Given that the beef is priced to be AMAZING (the cheapest cut starts at $70), we opted to avoid the starters and keep our appetites primed (pardon the pun) for the main event.

I opted for the cheapest New York sirloin (the USDA Prime aged 21 days) and my friend the Australian Angus, aged 35 days).  We had creamed spinach and broccoli, and I had the shallot-red wine bordelais sauce.

OMG.

It was amazing.  The seasoning was beautiful (13 herbs and spices) and the smoke-grill was evident in the multi-layered flavours.

The meat was firm but sliced easily (like butter).  Each mouthful was flavourful, with just enough chew before it melted in your mouth.

The sauce was delightful, and the sides excellent – beautiful creamed spinach, and perfectly cooked and seasoned broccoli.

This is NOT your average steak experience, but a connoisseur’s delight.

Without a doubt, the best steak I have ever had.  My friend said it was on his top 3 list (he’s eaten more steaks than I have!)

We were so satisfied we didn’t even want dessert to spoil it.

But of course, being a high end restaurant, you’re spoiled with amuse bouches and petit fours.  The amuse bouche was a fabulous choux concoction with a gruyere kick.  The petit fours were little macaroons and cookies – just enough of a sweet ending.

I had been fearful before dinner that the hefty price tag was because of the celebrity chef and not because of the quality of the food.  Happily, I was wrong.

The service was good (maybe a little forced, but I appreciated the effort), the decor upmarket-modern-American-casual-chic, with pictures of Hollywood stars gracing the walls (there is a Cut in Beverly Hills, and it’s a celeb favourite).

My gripe is that it’s awfully dark – I get the ‘romantic’ atmos attempt but seriously, I’d like to have been able to see more.  Turn up the lights a little.

What was amazing to me was the number of families and children having dinner.  Given that our bill for 2 steaks, some beers and bottled water was $400, how can people afford to bring their entire families for a casual dinner?  And would you want your 10 year old eating $100 steak?  It blew my mind, especially when I asked our charming waiter about it.  He said they were mostly local families, just having dinner, no special occasion.

Remarkable.  There’s obviously a lot of money wafting around, and Mr Puck must be sitting in his counting house yelling “KA-CHING!”

I want to go back again, to try the $250 wagyu steak (beautifully marbled).  I asked the waiter if that steak sang and danced in your mouth.  He said “no singing or dancing, but like heaven”.

Good enough for me.  Better start putting the pennies in the piggy bank so I can get back there.

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Vittana

July 29th, 2011

Kiva successfully pioneered the very simple idea of crowd-sourced microloans.  If you are unfamiliar with Kiva, I wrote about them before here.

You donate very small amounts (eg US$25) via the website towards someone’s enterprise in a third world nation: someone for whom a total of $300 would make a huge difference.  And you get your original ‘donation’ back.

Ingenious.  You don’t need to be Gates or Buffet and raise billions to make a difference, but a little bit of help from many really can go a long way.

Where Kiva helped small businesses and enterprises, Vittana sets out to use the same model to help learning.

Still fairly new, Vittana features students who need relatively small amounts to complete their education – $300, $500… as a lender, you choose how much you put in – from $25.

While the list of countries is still fairly small, it will grow as Vittana develops.  Right now 3 Asian countries are listed: Mongolia, the Philippines and Vietnam.

Nyamsuren needed $270 to finish her degree in Otgontenger University in Mongolia.  She got the money from 9 lenders through Vittana, and has since repaid it.

With a degree, Nyamsuren’s monthly income will go from $120 to $620 per month.

Just imagine – your $25 investment propels someone who’s hungry to learn and to build a better life, achieve that.

And you get your original $25 back.

It’s a beautiful thing.

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Tell it your way

July 27th, 2011

Gifted story tellers are magicians.

I’m not fussed if the stories are short, or long, but the ability to weave a spell, transport you, take you from beginning to end, hold your attention, capture your imagination -- that’s a wonderful talent.

Philips recently ran a competition in conjunction with Ridley Scott to find filmmakers who are adept story tellers.

The rules were that entries must have exactly 6 lines of dialogue, and could be no longer than 3 minutes.

Here’s the grand prize winner -- Porcelain Unicorn by Keegan Wilson.

Compelling, moving, and complete.

Check out the other winning entries here

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